Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its heart: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – crafted by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
